Tag: reel mowing

If you’ve stepped outside and noticed small clusters of mushrooms popping up in your Bermuda grass, you might be wondering: Is this bad for my lawn? Should I pull them up? Will they hurt my grass?

The truth is, mushrooms in your lawn aren’t always a bad sign. In fact, they often tell you something positive about your soil. But there are also times when you may want to take action. Let’s break it down.

Why Mushrooms Grow in Bermuda Grass

Mushrooms are a natural part of the ecosystem. They’re the fruiting bodies of fungi living in your soil, and they appear when conditions are just right — usually after periods of moisture, warm temperatures, and high humidity.

Some of the most common reasons mushrooms grow in Bermuda lawns include:

• Organic matter in the soil – Mushrooms feed on decaying plant material like old roots, buried wood, and grass clippings.
• Recent rainfall or irrigation – Mushrooms thrive in moist environments, so heavy rain or overwatering can cause a sudden outbreak.
• Healthy soil activity – A robust fungal presence means your soil is alive and working to break down organic matter, releasing nutrients for your grass.

Are Mushrooms a Bad Sign for Bermuda Grass?

In most cases, mushrooms are not a sign of disease or a threat to your Bermuda grass. In fact, their presence often indicates:

• Healthy soil biology – Mushrooms are part of a balanced lawn ecosystem.
• Good nutrient cycling – The fungi help decompose organic matter, releasing nitrogen and other nutrients your Bermuda grass needs.

However, there are a few scenarios where mushrooms can signal issues:

• Excess moisture – Consistently wet soil can promote fungal overgrowth and root problems.
• Poor drainage – Water pooling in certain areas can lead to mushrooms and turf stress.
• Buried debris – Old wood or roots under the lawn can become long-term mushroom food sources.

The Benefits of Mushrooms in Your Bermuda Grass

You might be surprised, but mushrooms actually bring some perks to your lawn:

1. Natural fertilization – As fungi break down organic matter, they release nutrients your grass can use.
2. Improved soil structure – Fungal networks (mycelium) help soil retain moisture and promote root health.
3. Biodiversity – A diverse lawn ecosystem can make your turf more resilient against pests and diseases.

Think of mushrooms as nature’s recyclers — they turn old, dead material into life-giving nutrients for your Bermuda grass.

Should You Remove Mushrooms from Your Lawn?

Removing mushrooms is more about personal preference and safety than lawn health. They won’t harm your Bermuda grass directly, but you might want to remove them if:

• You have pets or young children (some mushrooms are toxic if eaten).
• You don’t like the look of them.
• They’re spreading heavily in one area.

How to remove mushrooms:

• Wear gloves and pick them by hand, or use a small rake.
• Dispose of them in the trash — not the compost pile — to avoid spreading spores.

Will Mushrooms Damage My Bermuda Grass?

No — mushrooms themselves won’t damage your Bermuda grass. The underlying fungus lives in harmony with your lawn, often improving soil health.

The only risk is if mushrooms are a symptom of overly wet soil, which can stress Bermuda grass roots and promote turf diseases. If mushrooms appear after every watering, it might be time to adjust your irrigation schedule.

How to Reduce or Prevent Mushrooms

If you’d prefer to keep mushrooms to a minimum, try these tips:

1. Adjust watering – Bermuda grass likes deep, infrequent watering. Avoid daily shallow watering.
2. Improve drainage – Aerate compacted soil and address low spots where water collects.
3. Remove organic debris – Rake up clippings, leaves, and old mulch.
4. Dethatch when needed – Thick thatch layers can trap moisture and encourage fungi.
5. Sunlight exposure – Trim overhanging tree branches to allow more sunlight to reach damp areas.

Final Thoughts

Mushrooms in your Bermuda grass are usually a sign of healthy soil, not a problem. They’re part of nature’s recycling team, breaking down organic matter and enriching your lawn.

However, if you dislike their appearance or have safety concerns, you can remove them and reduce the conditions that make them thrive.

In short — don’t panic when you see mushrooms. In many cases, it means your Bermuda grass is growing in a thriving, living ecosystem.

Pro Tip: If you ever notice mushrooms accompanied by yellowing or thinning grass, that could be a sign of excessive moisture or lawn disease. In that case, check your watering schedule and consider a soil test.

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1. Assess Your Lawn’s Current Condition

Before you start working, take a moment to really evaluate your lawn. Walk around with a notebook and jot down observations. Look for:

• Bald spots or thin areas
• Weed infestations like crabgrass, clover, or dandelions
• Signs of pests such as grubs or chinch bugs
• Compacted soil that feels hard underfoot
• Dry or heat-stressed patches
• Excess thatch buildup (spongy layer between grass and soil)

Pro Tip: If you’re not sure what’s causing a problem, take photos and samples to your local extension office or garden center. Many offer free lawn problem diagnosis.

2. Mow at the Right Height for Late Summer

Mid-August mowing should be strategic. The goal is to keep grass tall enough to shade the soil, retain moisture, and encourage deep root growth.

• Cool-season grasses (fescue, rye, bluegrass): Keep mowing height at 3 to 4 inches.
• Warm-season grasses (Bermuda, Zoysia, St. Augustine): Maintain 1.5 to 2.5 inches.

Avoid cutting more than one-third of the grass blade at a time — scalping the lawn in late summer stresses it and opens the door to weeds.

Bonus Tip: Keep mower blades sharp. Dull blades tear grass instead of cutting cleanly, leading to brown tips and increased disease risk.

3. Control Weeds Before They Go to Seed

Mid-August is prime time to tackle weeds that might otherwise spread into fall.

• For warm-season lawns: Spot-treat with a post-emergent weed killer that targets broadleaf weeds without harming grass.
• For cool-season lawns: You can use selective herbicides now, but be mindful if you’re planning to overseed in a few weeks — some herbicides can prevent new seed germination.

Pulling weeds by hand works well for small infestations, especially after rain when the soil is soft.

Pro Tip: Get weeds under control now so you’re not fighting them during the ideal fall seeding and fertilizing window.

4. Address Summer Bare Spots

If you have patches of dirt where grass has died from heat, drought, pets, or heavy foot traffic, August is the time to repair them.

Quick Fix Steps for Bare Spots:

1. Rake away dead grass and loosen the soil 1–2 inches deep.
2. Spread a thin layer of enriched topsoil or compost.
3. Apply a high-quality grass seed that matches your existing lawn type.
4. Lightly rake the seed in and water gently.

For warm-season grasses, you can patch with sod instead of seed — sod establishes faster in hot weather.

5. Aerate if Your Soil Is Compacted

If you’ve had heavy foot traffic, summer parties, or frequent mowing, your soil may be compacted. Compaction limits oxygen, water, and nutrient flow to the roots.

• When to Aerate: Warm-season grasses can still be aerated in August; cool-season grasses are better aerated in early fall.
• How to Aerate: Use a core aerator (removes plugs of soil) rather than a spike aerator. Core aeration is more effective and lasts longer.

Aerating now for warm-season lawns helps roots grow stronger before they go dormant in winter.

6. Test and Amend Your Soil

A mid-August soil test can guide your fall fertilization strategy. Many lawns are fed blindly, which leads to nutrient imbalances.

Soil Testing Basics:

• Kits are available online or through local extension services.
• Test for pH, phosphorus, potassium, and nitrogen levels.
• Based on results, you might need lime (to raise pH) or sulfur (to lower pH).

Pro Tip: Fall feeding is most effective when your soil nutrients are balanced — so test now and apply amendments before your fall fertilization window.

7. Plan Your Fall Fertilization Schedule

August is the planning stage for fall feeding.

• Cool-season grasses: The heaviest feeding of the year happens in early to mid-fall, so now’s the time to choose your fertilizer and prep your spreader.
• Warm-season grasses: Apply a balanced, slow-release fertilizer in August to help strengthen roots before dormancy. Avoid high nitrogen late in the season, which can stimulate unwanted growth.

8. Manage Thatch Buildup

Thatch is a layer of dead stems, roots, and debris that can block water and nutrients from reaching the soil.

• Check for thatch by cutting a small wedge of your lawn — if the layer is more than ½ inch thick, it’s time to act.
• Dethatching options:
  • Manual dethatching rake (good for small lawns)
  • Power dethatcher (rents from most hardware stores)

Pro Tip: Combine dethatching with aeration for maximum lawn rejuvenation.

9. Water Deeply and Less Often

In late summer heat, many lawns get stressed from irregular watering. The trick is deep, infrequent watering rather than daily shallow watering.

• Water 1 to 1.5 inches per week, early in the morning.
• Use a rain gauge or empty tuna can to measure.
• Avoid evening watering — it promotes fungal diseases.

10. Edge and Trim for a Tidy Look

Mid-August is perfect for redefining lawn edges along driveways, sidewalks, and flower beds. Sharp edges make your yard look cared for even if the grass isn’t perfect yet.

11. Prepare for Fall Overseeding (Cool-Season Lawns)

If you have a cool-season lawn that’s thin or patchy, overseeding in early fall is the best way to thicken it up.

Mid-August Prep Steps:

1. Choose a high-quality grass seed suited to your climate.
2. Mark your calendar for overseeding 4–6 weeks before your average first frost.
3. Control weeds now so they don’t compete with new seedlings.

12. Pest and Disease Monitoring

August heat and humidity can trigger pests like armyworms, grubs, and fungal lawn diseases.

Warning Signs:

• Brown or dead patches that spread quickly
• Grass that pulls up easily (grub damage)
• Powdery or slimy residue (fungus)

Treat issues immediately to prevent bigger fall problems.

13. Mulch and Garden Bed Prep

Your lawn and landscaping work together, so take a moment to freshen up mulch in flower beds and around trees.

• Mulch helps retain soil moisture and regulate temperature.
• In August, replacing or topping up mulch helps protect roots in the coming cooler months.

14. Tool Maintenance for the Fall Push

Your mower, spreader, and trimmers will see heavy use in the next few months. Mid-August is a good time to:

• Sharpen mower blades
• Clean and lubricate trimmer heads
• Check spreader calibration

15. Keep Foot Traffic Light During Heat Stress

If your lawn is already struggling from summer heat, avoid walking or playing heavily on it in August. Stressed grass recovers slower and may not bounce back until fall.

16. Consider Topdressing with Compost

Adding a thin layer (¼ inch) of compost across your lawn can improve soil health, encourage microbial activity, and aid in nutrient retention.

• Best done after aeration for warm-season lawns in August.
• For cool-season lawns, wait until just before fall overseeding.

17. Plan Fall Leaf Management Now

Fallen leaves in autumn can smother grass if left too long. Mid-August is the perfect time to:

• Inspect or purchase a leaf blower or mulching mower
• Clear storage space for collected leaves
• Stock up on biodegradable leaf bags

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Final Thoughts

August lawn care is all about looking ahead. The hot days may tempt you to wait until fall, but by starting now you give your grass — and soil — a head start on recovery and regrowth.

Remember, the most beautiful lawns in October and November are the ones that were cared for in August. Whether it’s aerating, dethatching, fertilizing, or just fine-tuning your watering schedule, these steps will help ensure your lawn finishes the year strong.

If you want a lush, green, weed-free lawn, you need to understand the difference between pre-emergence and post-emergence fertilizers. Many homeowners buy products without realizing when and how to use them.

In this guide, we’ll cover:

• The differences between pre- and post-emergence fertilizers
• When to apply each one
• How to use them for the best results
• Liquid vs. granular — which is better?
• Pro tips for a healthy lawn

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Table of Contents

• What is a Pre-Emergence Fertilizer?
• What is a Post-Emergence Fertilizer?
• Key Differences Between Pre- and Post-Emergence
• When to Apply Pre-Emergence Fertilizer
• When to Apply Post-Emergence Fertilizer
• Liquid vs. Granular Fertilizers: Which is Better?
  • Granular Fertilizers
  • Liquid Fertilizers
• How to Apply Pre-Emergence Correctly
• How to Apply Post-Emergence Correctly
• Combining Fertilizer and Weed Control
• Common Mistakes to Avoid
• Which is Better?
• Pro Lawn Tips
• Final Thoughts

What is a Pre-Emergence Fertilizer?

Pre-emergence fertilizers are applied before weeds or unwanted plants germinate. They often contain a pre-emergent herbicide that creates a barrier in the soil, stopping weed seeds from sprouting.

This doesn’t mean you apply it before your grass grows — it means you apply it before weeds start to appear.

How they work:

• Create a barrier just below the soil surface
• Stop weed seeds from developing roots and shoots
• Feed your grass so it grows thicker and stronger
• Reduce competition for water, sunlight, and nutrients

Common weeds controlled: Crabgrass, goosegrass, spurge, annual bluegrass (Poa annua)

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What is a Post-Emergence Fertilizer?

Post-emergence fertilizers are used after plants have germinated. The term is often paired with post-emergent herbicides, which kill actively growing weeds you can already see.

These products feed your lawn while targeting weeds above the soil.

How they work:

• Kill weeds that are already growing
• Absorb through the leaves of unwanted plants (herbicide blends)
• Boost lawn recovery and growth during active seasons
• Most effective when weeds are young and small

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Key Differences Between Pre- and Post-Emergence

Feature	Pre-Emergence	Post-Emergence
Timing	Before weeds sprout	After weeds are visible
Main Purpose	Prevent weeds	Kill existing weeds
Nutrient Supply	Early-season feeding	Mid- to late-season feeding
Form	Mostly granular	Both liquid and granular
Best For	Annual grassy weed prevention	Broadleaf and grassy weed control

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When to Apply Pre-Emergence Fertilizer

Timing is critical. Too early, and it breaks down before weeds sprout. Too late, and weeds are already growing.

Best time:

• Early spring when soil temps are about 55°F for several days (often when forsythia bushes bloom)
• Late summer/early fall for warm-season grasses to stop winter weeds

Pro tip: Water in immediately after application to activate the barrier.

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When to Apply Post-Emergence Fertilizer

Post-emergence treatments work whenever weeds are actively growing.

Best time:

• Cool-season grasses: Spring or early fall when temps are mild
• Warm-season grasses: Late spring through summer during peak growth
• Avoid mowing 1–2 days before and after applying herbicides for better absorption

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Liquid vs. Granular Fertilizers: Which is Better?

Granular Fertilizers

Pros:

• Easy to apply with a spreader
• Long-lasting slow-release feeding
• Less drift to unintended areas

Cons:

• Require watering in
• Slower uptake
• Uneven coverage if not spread evenly

Best for: Pre-emergence and long-term feeding.

Liquid Fertilizers

Pros:

• Fast nutrient uptake
• Can mix with herbicides for one-pass application
• Good for spot treatments

Cons:

• Shorter-lasting
• More work for large lawns
• Can burn leaves in high heat if overapplied

Best for: Post-emergence and quick green-ups.

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How to Apply Pre-Emergence Correctly

1. Mow first so granules reach the soil
2. Spread evenly with a calibrated broadcast spreader
3. Water right away to activate the barrier
4. Avoid disturbing the soil after application

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How to Apply Post-Emergence Correctly

1. Identify the weed so you choose the right herbicide blend
2. Pick the right form — liquids for spot spraying, granules for broad coverage
3. Apply during active growth for best results
4. Water after if using granules; if using foliar sprays, wait 24 hours before watering

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Combining Fertilizer and Weed Control

Many “weed and feed” products mix fertilizer with pre- or post-emergent herbicides. They’re convenient, but timing matters.

• Pre-emergent weed and feed: Apply early spring
• Post-emergent weed and feed: Apply when weeds are visible and actively growing

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Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Applying pre-emergence too early or late
• Overlapping treatments and stressing grass
• Spraying post-emergents in extreme heat
• Ignoring label directions

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Which is Better?

Neither is “better” — both are essential in a year-round lawn plan.

A healthy program includes:

1. Pre-emergence in spring/fall to prevent weeds
2. Post-emergence as needed to kill existing weeds
3. Regular feeding to keep grass thick and competitive

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Pro Lawn Tips

• Sharpen mower blades regularly
• Water deeply and less often for strong roots
• Aerate once a year for better soil health
• Overseed thin spots to prevent weeds from filling in

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Final Thoughts

Pre-emergence and post-emergence fertilizers each play a unique role in lawn health. Use both at the right times, choose the right form (liquid or granular), and follow proper application methods for a beautiful, weed-free lawn year-round.

A strong, well-fed lawn is your best defense against weeds — combine smart fertilization with good mowing and watering habits, and you’ll enjoy a thick, green yard with minimal weed problems.

Introduction

Every homeowner dreams of a lush, green, healthy lawn that stands out in the neighborhood. But achieving that dream doesn’t come without effort—and it starts with choosing the right fertilizer. While the market is packed with options, one name consistently rises above the rest: The Andersons.

Known for decades of innovation in turf and agriculture, The Andersons have built a reputation for producing some of the highest quality lawn care products available today. Whether you’re a DIY homeowner like me, or a professional landscaper maintaining large properties, The Andersons provide premium solutions that deliver visible results.

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The Andersons Legacy: Why Trust Their Brand?

The Andersons isn’t just another lawn fertilizer company. Founded in 1947, the Ohio-based company began as a family-owned grain and agricultural business before branching into turf management and lawn care. Their decades of research and development have established them as leaders in the professional turf industry—from golf courses and athletic fields to residential lawns.

• Proven in Professional Turf Management: Their products are used on PGA golf courses, stadium fields, and commercial landscapes. If it works on turf that gets daily stress and scrutiny, it works in your yard.
• Advanced Research & Development: They continually invest in innovative technologies like DG® granules (dispersing granules) that set them apart from basic fertilizers.
• Consistency & Quality Control: Unlike generic brands, The Andersons maintain tight quality standards, ensuring every bag delivers exactly what’s promised.

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What Makes Andersons Fertilizers Different?

When you walk down the fertilizer aisle, most bags look the same—numbers on the front (N-P-K ratios), a lawn graphic, and some vague promises of greener grass. But the difference with The Andersons is in the details.

1. DG Technology (Dispersing Granules)

This is one of The Andersons’ signature innovations. DG technology allows granules to disperse into thousands of microparticles once they hit water.

Why this matters:

• Even coverage across the entire lawn.
• Quicker absorption into the soil profile.
• Reduced waste because nutrients are distributed evenly.

2. Balanced Formulations

The Andersons design fertilizers with specific seasonal and turf-type needs in mind, such as:

• 16-4-8 Lawn Fertilizer for balanced nutrition.
• HumiChar® with Humic DG™ for soil health and long-term vitality.
• Starter Fertilizers ideal for new sod or overseeding.

3. Soil Health Integration

They go beyond N-P-K by incorporating biochar, humic acid, and micronutrients. This doesn’t just feed your grass—it strengthens the soil foundation.

4. Trusted by Pros, Available to Homeowners

Products once reserved for golf courses and sports fields are now available for your yard, giving homeowners access to professional-grade fertilizers.

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Key Andersons Fertilizer Products You Should Know

1. PGF Complete 16-4-8 Fertilizer

Perfect for all grass types, especially Bermuda and fescue. Features DG technology, iron for deep green color, and micronutrients for soil balance.

Click here to explore PGF Complete →

2. HumiChar®

Enhanced with biochar and Humic DG™, HumiChar improves soil health while providing slow-release nitrogen for lasting results.

Click here to explore HumiChar →

3. New Lawn Starter 20-27-5 or EcoFusion™ Starter 16-21-4

Ideal for new lawns, sod, or overseeding. High phosphorus content promotes strong root growth and rapid establishment.

Click here to explore Starter Fertilizer →

4. Professional Fertilizer with Iron

Designed for homeowners chasing that deep golf course green. Iron adds dark color without excessive growth spurts.

Click here to explore Fertilizers with Iron →

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The Benefits of Choosing Andersons

• Healthier, stronger grass: Consistent feeding builds roots and prevents weak patches.
• Improved soil health: Products with humic acid, biochar, and micronutrients nurture beneficial microbes.
• Professional quality at homeowner scale: Trusted on golf courses, now available for your yard.
• Cost efficiency: Higher quality product means fewer applications, saving money over time.
• Versatility: Works on warm-season grasses (Bermuda, Zoysia, St. Augustine) and cool-season grasses (Fescue, Bluegrass, Rye).

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Why The Andersons Are Better Than Generic Brands

Generic fertilizers often provide fast results but little else. They typically rely on heavy nitrogen that causes quick top growth but ignores soil health. Andersons fertilizers balance quick greening with long-term improvements, meaning stronger roots, healthier soil, and sustainable lawn care.

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Real-World Testimonials

• “After switching to Andersons PGF Complete, my Bermuda looks like a golf fairway.”
• “HumiChar not only made my lawn greener, but the soil test showed huge improvement after one season.”
• “It’s more expensive than generic fertilizer, but I actually save money because I apply less often.”

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How to Use Andersons Fertilizers for Best Results

1. Soil Test First: Identify deficiencies before applying fertilizer.
2. Apply with a Spreader: Use a broadcast or drop spreader for even coverage.
3. Water In: Light irrigation or rainfall activates DG technology.
4. Seasonal Timing:
   • Spring: Apply PGF Complete 16-4-8.
   • Summer: Use products with iron or slow-release nitrogen.
   • Fall: Apply Starter Fertilizer for overseeding or root development.

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Long-Term Lawn Strategy with Andersons

A sample annual plan might look like this:

• Early Spring (March–April): Apply PGF Complete 16-4-8.
• Late Spring (May–June): Apply Carbon-X for soil health.
• Summer (July–August): Use fertilizer with iron for cosmetic green.
• Fall (September–October): Apply Starter Fertilizer for overseeding or winter prep.

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Conclusion: The Andersons Difference

If you want your lawn to look better than the neighbor’s, choosing the right fertilizer makes all the difference. Few companies deliver the professional quality, soil-focused innovation, and proven results that The Andersons does.

Bottom line: If you’re serious about lawn care, and you want the best, trust The Andersons Fertilizer Products.

Shop The Andersons Fertilizer Products Here →